Rectorseal 97637 Safe-T-Switch Ss2

Brand:Rectorseal

3.8/5

60.26

Capacità di commutazione di 125 Amp. Capacità di carico di 25 Amp. Scheda 40 componenti in plastica PVC1. Conforme a UL 508. Design brevettato dell'interruttore reed/magnete a tenuta d'acqua.

Capacità di commutazione di 125 Amp. Capacità di carico di 25 Amp. Scheda 40 componenti in plastica PVC1. Conforme a UL 508. Design brevettato dell'interruttore reed/magnete a tenuta d'acqua.
Brand Rectorseal
Connector Type Plug In
Contact Type Normally Closed
Country of Origin China
Current Rating 250 Amps
Domestic Shipping Item can be shipped within U.S.
International Shipping This item can be shipped to select countries outside of the U.S.
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer No
Item Dimensions LxWxH 5.5 x 1.75 x 8.25 inches
Item model number 97637
Manufacturer The Rectorseal Corporation
Material Plastic
Mounting Type Plug-In Mount
Operating Voltage 110 Volts
Operation Mode ON-ON
Product Dimensions 5.5 x 1.75 x 8.25 inches; 4.8 Ounces
Terminal Solder

3.8

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Scritto da: DG
good safety for A/C
This is a typical safety switch and is used to shut off an A/C unit when the evaporator condensate drain is clogged. The Rectorseal brand is a common brand. It is usually installed on the secondary drain port on the indoor evaporator coil or the air handler. It has a float that opens a switch so you wire it in series to the yellow thermostat wire (24 volt wire) to shut off the outdoor compressor if it senses the evaporator pan is overflowing. I like to pressure fit the PVC connection so you can remove it from the coil instead of glueing it in place. The pipe size is 3/4". I would use a different type float switch (clamp-on type) on the emergency drain pan under the furnace or air handler. I think it is better used close to the evaporator because a condensate leak will leak through a furnace and ruin a main circuit board or even a blower motor before a lower emergency pan float switch shuts off the air conditioner. Remember it is for 24 volt circuits. Install it "inline" or in series on the thermostat wire that energizes the compressor- usually the yellow"Y" wire. This means the blower (G(reen))wire will still run. Make sure you install it level with the evaporator on the secondary drain port which is slightly HIGHER then the main drain port on a evaporator which should already have a white PVC pipe connected. Do not disable this safety- fix the clogged pipe - use a wet vacuum on the condensate drain pipe outside that usually works. You can also cut the drainline near the indoor coil and use pressurized nitrogen to blow out a clog then use a 3/4" PVC coupling to reconnect the drainline. Make sure to clear the pipe going into the coil as well. All air handlers should have a PVC ptrap on the drain pipe this keeps the blower from drawing air in through that drainline and possibly keeping the drain from draining. On a regular gas furnace the indoor coil is on the "positive" side of the blower so it doesn't need the p-trap -(it blows a little air outward through that drainline). Sometimes the secondary drain port on the evaporator has a plug or a plastic knockout I carefully use a drill bit to drill through the knockout without damaging the threads. This threaded connection just needs to be hand tightened plus maybe a 1/2 turn don't overtight these drain connections on the coil as the pan is usually plastic and can crack. Use tfe paste or teflon tape on the threads. You should be able to lift the float assembly out of the elbow to clean it when needed. The quality of this product is good and it is a simple product. You can easily test it like any switch using a volt meter while the outdoor compressor is running it should have 24 volts between either of the wire leads to ground. With the switch open (overflow position) one lead would read 24 volts and the other lead 0 volts to ground- that is while thermostat is "calling for" the compressor to run. Some service techs install this on the 24 volt red wire which will switch off all the 24 volts to the thermostat just have to trace the 24 volt wiring to know. A furnace or airhandler in an attic should always have a emergency drain pan under it on the floor and that pan should always stay dry except if there is a problem. Shut off the unit if that emergency pan has water in it until the leak is fixed. This switch is used mostly if the unit is in a closet or in the garage or basement and can be used along with the emergency pan. Almost all Air conditioner drains clog up eventually. A heat pump doesn't produce condensate in the indoor section in the heating (winter) mode just in the A/C (summer) mode.
Scritto da: David C
Better to have one of the than not
At the end of my HVAC guy’s last repair he noticed that my overflow switch wasn’t working. He showed me how to wire it and said if I got one from him it would cost over $100. It was pretty easy install since I was just replace one that wasn’t working. I didn’t have to do any pvc work. In either case this is a pretty easy diy job that gives peace of mind.
Scritto da: Paul C.
very good product.
works good. I used it with diesel fuel which it was not intended for and it is holding up good.
Scritto da: PJ
Simple and effective
I installed the switch on the secondary drain outlet, next to the primary. Instead of using the supplied 3/4" male adapter, go to a big-box store and get a 3/4" NPT male to 3/4" female pvc fitting and a piece of 3/4" pvc pipe at least 4" long. By using the extension, the fitting can be easily removed by cutting the pvc pipe near the male fitting and then reused. If you install it with the supplied fitting, you will have to remove the primary drain before this one can be removed. The switch is normally closed and is wired in series with the condensate pump safety switch or there is enough wire to extend to the wiring panel on the air handler.
Scritto da: Leah Giordano
AC floater valve
Great priced product and installed easily!
Scritto da: James T
Necessary product
Easy install, I used the red wire NOT THE YELLOW so the furnace will shut down in the event there is icing on the condenser. The furnace does not have a pan so had to use this. My other furnace is above a bedroom and has a pan so I used a shutoff valve float on the edge of the pan
Scritto da: wheelholder
exact replacement
My old float valve went bad and this was an exact replacement. Much less expensive than the one offered by my ac guy. Unhook 2 wires and reinstall. Very easy to do.
Scritto da: Walden Sr.
Shut-off
Does what designed to do.
Scritto da: Blueice999uk
Air conditioning cut off switch
Got this float switch to cut of the air conditioning if the condensate plugs up. Simple installation and installed it on the HVAC evaporator secondary drain.
Scritto da: Vic
Works as intended. I have better piece of mind now.
What I like is the part that had the floater is not glue to the part that need to connect to the drain water pan. This allow me to take it apart and to connect it without interfering with my existing pipes nearby (also good when taking out later for cleaning) Tested and it works as intended.
Scritto da: Kevin mccreight
Perfect
Just what was needed for the area being used

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