Cavo scaldante antigelo EasyHeat 2102 - 100'

Brand:Easy Heat

3.7/5

214.99

DESCRIZIONE DEL PRODOTTO I cavi scaldanti per tubi autoregolanti EasyHeat Freeze Free forniscono una protezione flessibile contro il congelamento dei tubi nelle applicazioni più impegnative. La tecnologia cut-to-length è ideale per installazioni che richiedono la protezione di numerosi tubi di varie lunghezze. L'effetto autoregolante del cavo riduce il consumo energetico quando il tubo non richiede protezione antigelo. Sono ideali per l'uso su tubi di alimentazione e scarico dell'acqua residenziali in metallo o plastica soggetti a temperature di congelamento; linee di approvvigionamento idrico sotto case prefabbricate; e cottage, fienili e annessi che non vengono utilizzati regolarmente. INFORMAZIONI DI CONTATTO DEL PRODUTTORE 1-800-526-5265

Prodotto non disponibile
Lunghezza: 100 piedi e una robusta guaina intrecciata in metallo fornisce una messa a terra elettrica e protezione contro i danni. Ideale per l'uso su tubi di alimentazione e scarico dell'acqua residenziali in metallo o plastica soggetti a temperature di congelamento. Riduce il consumo energetico quando il tubo non richiede protezione antigelo. Fornisce una protezione flessibile contro il congelamento dei tubi anche nelle applicazioni più impegnative. Sistema di riscaldamento a tubi autoregolante.
Brand Easy Heat
Brand ‎Easy Heat
Country of Origin ‎China
Customer Reviews 4.7 4.7 out of 5 stars 342 ratings 4.7 out of 5 stars
Domestic Shipping Item can be shipped within U.S.
International Shipping This item can be shipped to select countries outside of the U.S. Learn More
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer ‎No
Item Dimensions LxWxH 8.9 x 8.6 x 2.8 inches
Item model number ‎2102
Item Weight 4 Pounds
Item Weight ‎4 pounds
Manufacturer ‎Thermwell Products Co., Inc
Manufacturer Part Number ‎1229.2012
Model ‎1229.2012
Nominal Wall Thickness 1.3
Product Dimensions ‎8.9 x 8.6 x 2.8 inches

3.7

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Scritto da: Greg From White Mountains AZ
Keeps pipes from freezing but beware of inrush current - see video
The media could not be loaded. I did a lot of research on different heat cable systems and this product gave me the best bang for the buck. Here are a few things I learned from my installation. I did not install the heat cable myself so when I say "I" in this review, I am referring to my installer. I installed 240 feet of this heat cable under the crawl space in a vacation home in the Northern Arizona White Mountains. This heat cable allows me to shut off the water rather than drain the pipes so I can come in an just turn the water on if I want to visit in the winter. A couple of notes from my installation: 1. If you need close to 300ft of cable, buy the 300ft roll. Maximum single run is 75ft. I was left with several 25-30ft sections that I could not use from the 100ft roll. For the longer runs, I measured out 75 feet and placed a marker tape to know when I was at the maximum length. I wanted to keep the number of heat cable circuits to a minimum so I kept the runs close to 75ft each. 2. Recommend you use a good quality electrical tape rather than the manufacturer's suggested tape. I wound the tape in a spiral to avoid constantly cutting it to length which saves time. 3. Even when temps are not near freezing this heat cable is still on. Recommend you use a thermostat plug to turn it off and save electricity when not needed. 4. Be careful when calculating the circuit power requirements. The heat cable chart for my region shows a current requirement of 3W/ft. But this heat cable has an in-rush current that is much greater. My steady state circuit requirement is 720W (6A) at 50 degrees (3W/ft * 240ft). But for the first few minutes the maximum cable draw was 1,440W (12A), or 6W/ft. Once the temperatures get much colder, this in-rush current could be higher. I am testing it this winter so I will know better come January when it gets really cold. 4. For my installation I was able to install it under the pipe not wrapped around. But in certain installations where the hot and cold copper pipe are very close together, I don't see why you could not wrap the heat cable around both hot and cold to make the installation easier. I did wrap the insulation around both pipes where they were close enough to do this. 5. Other reviewers have suggested a monitoring device to ensure the heat cable is working. I am a bit of a geek, so I designed my own and now measure the temperature of each heat cable circuit. It sends me a warning SMS if one of the pipes reaches freezing temps. The installation is not trivial if you are working under the crawl space. It took a week to complete it including electrical, thermostat, cable installation, insulation and remote monitor. Nevertheless, it's not rocket science, just a lot on time on your back in very tight spaces. Update December 2018:. Well as predicted the 240ft of heat cable tripped a 15A breaker on startup on a cold day. That's greater than 7W/ft. Update October 2019: I added a controller that not only includes a thermostat, it also provides an 8 minute soft start for the heat cable. I will be testing it over the winter. Also moving to a 20A circuit. Update October 2020: After testing the 8 minute soft start controller I learned that my total cable in-rush current draw at near freezing temperatures is 20 Amps AC. This means the components I selected for the soft-start were underrated. I abandoned this simple design for a more complex one where the thermostat regulates the heat cable in a range between 35 deg F and 50 deg F. It also allows you to set a on time delay so if you have several circuits like me, I have four, you can help keep them from all turning on at once. I have my 270 ft of heat cable attached to a 30 Amp service divided into two 15 Amp circuits with two heat cable systems on each. A real overkill based on what can be done with a proper thermostat/controller. I am testing my prototype over the Winter so maybe in March of 2021 I will have more results. Update June 2022: After much trial and error, I finally decided the best way to control the pipe heat cable in-rush is with a traditional soft start controller. It uses a controller and a 10 minute TRIAC control slo-start. By limiting the current in 10 minute progressive steps, the resulting post warm-up current is equivalent to the specified current draw. In my case 10 Amps. I built a prototype and have sent it out to a heat cable company for evaluation. My current project is to develop an IoT controller with slo-start capability reporting to a server with mobile app.
Scritto da: BONNIE CISSELL
Heat tape
Did it’s job this winter
Scritto da: Edward P.
Used to supply water from outside hydrant to inside of barn.
I used 90' of this cable on a 50" hose, wrapping it around the hose and burying it just a few inches below the ground. I put a light dimmer on it to control the wattage, and running less than half the power, so far it easily handles -10F. Not worried if it gets colder, there is more than enough heat available to keep water in hose from freezing. I also covered the hydrant with an insulated bag after wrapping it with this cable. Last winter we had to haul and clean pails outside in the snow and wind. A lifesaver to have running water with a laundry tub INSIDE the barn. It is really a blessing.
Scritto da: Simon
Get extra plug ends and end caps.
Good heat tape. It was -25 last night, and the pipes that I put the tape on, and wrapped with insulation, are flowing just fine. The ones I didn't wrap, are frozen. I wrapped some spiral, around the pies and water meter, over top itself, and it worked just fine, like wrapping a rope round it. I also ran long straight runs, without wrapping. Works just fine. I secured it against the pipe with electrical tape. My two Pex water lines, run side by side, up against each other, so I ran one line, between them both, and wrapped with insulation, instead of running tape for each pipe. It should take care of both pipes just fine. It was -25 last night and all is ok on the pipes I wrapped. It can get below -40 here, so I will be putting it to the test, but so far, this seems like good industrial stregnth stuff, much better than the cheap stuff you get at Lowes. Get extra plug ends, and end caps. You are probably going to have to cut it in places, and make multiple runs. That's why I havent finished mine yet. Waiting on more plug ends to come. Every cut will require a plug end. I ran the heat tape right up through the floor, under the sink, went through the hole the pipe comes through, and installed a GFCI under the sink that works on a light switch (used to run garbage disposal) and plugged it in there. When it's cold I just flip the switch. Easy peasy. This is good stuff.
Scritto da: Troy D.
one of my favorite brands of heat tape
I live in Alaska, so have used a few different heat tapes in my nearly 40 years of living here. The easy heat brand is remarkably "easy" to install. Quite a few other heat tapes are a royal PITA, and require heat shrink tubing, soldering etc. These are extremely easy to cut to whatever length you need, and within 5 min. you're good to go. While my water line is well insulated, 20 feet of this from my house to below ground got me through a -43° temperature. Pretty remarkable for only 3 watts a foot. I have a second one of these installed on a P-trap and my rental cabin, and again no problems there either. Worked perfectly down to -43. Alaska tested! I thought I would add one warning to my review. This cable is not intended for contact with water, and has the potential for shorting. It's best to cover this with fiberglass insulation with a moisture barrier. Either foil or plastic. You want a noncombustible material against the heat tape. Also be cautious if your pipes have a tendency to "sweat" or are otherwise in a very moist environment. A different type of cable may be better suited in this case. This cable is really intended for dry environments. That being said I've had it in conditions where it got wet, and never had any issues with it, but there is potential for problems.

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