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US Stove BSK1000 Barrel Camp Kit fornello, medio, nero Kit fornello nero

Brand:US Stove

3.7/5

€
229.70

Non in vendita o utilizzo nello stato di Washington. Realizzato in ghisa resistente. Leggero, portatile e facile da montare. Può essere utilizzato con il kit adattatore a doppia canna BKAD500 per raddoppiare le dimensioni del fornello da campo.

Quantity
Aggiungi al carrelloCompra subito

EAN: 796084324315

Categories: Sport e tempo libero, Attività all'aperto, Campeggio ed escursionismo, Cucina da campo, Fornelli e griglie,

Non in vendita o utilizzo nello stato di Washington. Realizzato in ghisa resistente. Leggero, portatile e facile da montare. Può essere utilizzato con il kit adattatore a doppia canna BKAD500 per raddoppiare le dimensioni del fornello da campo.
Brand US Stove
Color Black
Item Dimensions LxWxH 4 x 15 x 16.5 inches
Item Weight 26.15 Pounds
Material Multi

3.7

8 Review
5 Star
77
4 Star
14
3 Star
5
2 Star
1
1 Star
2

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Scritto da: Troy Hone
Rusts pretty quickly after use
I used this for a heating burn barrel stove for my shop. Works okay but assembly can be a bit tricky for the rear legs and flue pipe collar as it is easy to drop a nut or cut yourself on the holes in the barrel while assembling. Also, some of the screws on the flue collar actually interfere with the damper operation when damper is in the flue collar. You may want to move damper location up in flue pipe a bit.
Scritto da: mark
As expected
These stove kits have been around forever, you'll get exactly what you are expecting to get here. The parts to turn a barrel into a camp stove. I used it to create a home made maple syrup evaporator.
Scritto da: brian
Decent value
Not precision engineered by any stretch but decent over all kit. Nuts and bolts are pure china pot metal garbage though go to hardware store and upgrade those
Scritto da: Gabby_Jim_41
Would buy it again
Like most of the other reviews I've seen, I am very happy with my purchase and would buy another if I saw a use. The chimney adapter doesn't "LOOK" curved to fit the drum/barrel, but it is. I discovered this when I decided to put the the damper on the end of the drum instead of the side. I want to leave the indicated area free so I can use the surface for other things. However, a little furnace cement and some ingenuity - some "bend-a-matic' modification to the drum - solves that issue. When marking where to cut the opening for the door, it is necessary to do a little "free hand" drawing as there is no way to mark around the vent opening. A paper template of where to cut would have been a very low cost convenience. Perhaps the buyer could create a template by laying a sheet of newspaper over the INSIDE of the door and making a cut-out. Wish I had thought of that BEFORE doing it the hard way. Contrary to the instructions, inspired by some of the other reviews, I did NOT place the door so as to remove the smaller bung. Instead, I placed the door so that both the large and small bungs were beside the bottom of the door - that way both can be removed to allow more air into the drum - additionally, if I decide to add a blower later, I'll have a threaded place to connect it without more cutting. Be sure to use a fine-toothed metal cutting blade - (for THIN metal), I was caught short handed by how thin the metal is - had to go to a store and buy a finer blade for my saber saw. All in all, I am very pleased with my purchase and plan to build a (insulated) "tin shed" around it so I can duct the heat under my mobile home to augment the furnace.
Scritto da: Nick
Cast iron and works well; makes a great smoke dragon.
No heat sapping EPA garbage here! The money saved can buy a great hearth, fire board, ladder, flue pipe, etc. Expect to spend $1,000+ on the extras to install any wood burner. You will need power tools to use this kit as intended; a cutoff grinder, sawzall, power drill, etc. Once it's all installed, you will have one powerful smoke dragon. This is my second order, the first one is in my greenhouse on a double barrel stove (pictured) and has been in use for two years-ish now. A double barrel puts out around 200,000 - 350,000 BTUs of heat when running full blast and that kind out output kept my plants alive during the historic freeze in Texas. Single digits is hard to push back against with single wall plastic but this kit will help you do it; expect to be filling your stove every four hours, day and night if or when those temps come around. Temps in mid 20s, low 30s and a barrel will maintain hot coals for 6-8+ hours; depending on the quantity and type of wood used. I highly recommend a piece of straight pipe with a 90 degree elbow so you can make use of the 2" plug on most 55 gallon barrels as an air inlet without embers popping out of it. A carbon monoxide detector is a must; they are around $5-10 and will last all winter (don't get it wet!). keeping several inches of sand in the bottom of your barrel should increase its usable service life by several years. Welding gloves should also be purchased with this kit and will really help you with refilling while the stove is burning. Keep kids and pets away from the stove, bolt it down if you can. When it's really cooking, you can't be within 3' of it without the heat starting to burn. It's my opinion that wood is the best primary heat source for greenhouse heating; it's low tech and simply works. Propane is the best backup heat source, fuel never expires and heaters are simple devices.
Scritto da: Amazon Customer
Works great
Built the stove to use in my shop, it works great. The handle is a little cheesy but the whole is the right size to tap out to 5/16NC and put a bolt through the spring and double nut it at the latch. Other than that everything was as it should be and went to get her easy.
Scritto da: richard breshears
Make a stove
Easily make a decent wood stove.
Scritto da: Thomas Kennedy
The pipes fit backwards
OK, if you think of how heat/smoke rises you would think the flu would be designed so the 8 inch pipe would fit on the outside of the flu structure. No, it fits on the inside so smoke can escape around the edge. I had to purchase a tube of fire blocking sealant to seal around the 8 inch pipe edges. Other than that it heats my 20X25 insulated arched steel shop quite well. One note; if I were to do it again I would put the flu in the center of the barrel so I could burn the material in the middle and avoid making the back of the barrel super hot. I put mine towards the back of the barrel and to make the smoke flow better I lit the fire towards the back as well. Even with what I thought would be a big enough gap between the barrel and the wall, it melted the foam insulation in the wall. I places some corrugated steel between the barrel and the wall and all is good now but I think I could have avoided the issue if I placed the flu in the center and burned the wood there instead of the very back.

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