To begin, the full instruction sheet on the first page (the second segment) isn't as clear as it should be. Sure, if you have experience installing latches before, likely you wouldn't have a problem, but for people who've never installed door knobs before will never know "latch face" is a category "round face plate" and "face plate" fall under. If they did, then they'd know the second segment of the page is "either or", but it didn't look like that at first. At first it seemed to be saying do part 1 (left side), then part 2 (right side). Even Master Lock Tech Support on the phone, while reading the instructions along agreed it was confusing. What adds to the confusion is the fact that by default, the rectangular latch face is attached to the backplate WHILE the floating sleeve is on the latch...why? The floating sleeve, according to the instructions are only for the drive-in installation, yet it's on while the rectangular faceplate is on. I hope one can see why this somewhat increases the confusion. Thirdy, interestingly enough the rectangular part of the latch (which amazingly does not have a way to be separated from the cylindrical part, according to the instructions and on the phone with Master Lock Tech Support) requires a bigger hole to fit into than the cylindrical part. Who in their right minds would do this? What's the benefit? If anything, it would only create a problem, such as in my case, where the rectangular part cannot fit in, but the cylindrical part can. Also, when it comes to pieces...they give you two faceplates. TWO. one that snaps on the backplate and one...that doesn't, and I'm left to wonder what this one is for. It surely isn't for the drive-in. Good thing I first tried this on a door that wasn't the door to my room (which I want the knob to be on). It required further buffing out of the side hole, which is pathetic. I would not need to do this, especially since this knob pretty much falls under the same standard as my old knob (same knob size, lach face, latchbolt, screws and everything) but somehow the rectangular part of the latch HAS to be thicker here. Amazing, to say the least, and no, this isn't a slight difference where you could just shove the latch through hoping the metal material will "push" through the wooden obstacle. It's pretty noticeable. I tried to see if using my old latch would work (was like 90% confident it would) but no, it doesn't work with the design of this door knob, and I doubt the latch for my room door would suffice either, despite the fact the door knob is a little different than on the door I experimented on (room door knob needs to be opened with a pin, whereas experimental door has no locking mechanism whatsoever). The only hope I have of installing this on my room is if the latch hole is big enough to fit it, or, I buff it out also with the sandpaper and wide flathead screwdriver that I used on the exp. door. The only beef I have with that is the sawdust...call me crazy but, I literally hate the idea of sawdust flying around in my room, with all the electronics in there sensitive to that kind of stuff (all their manuals say to keep away from any kind of dust, e.g. sawdust etc. that may go inside them) I suppose putting duck tape on both side of the door knob hole would help from the sawdust floating around. Then again, it still can come out of the side hole, but that's something I'm going to have to go through to put this thing on (if the latch hole isn't big enough, that is). Also, I have to be within the room while working on this, since the door doesn't open to the outside. I'll edit this when I unscrew my old knob from my room door and see if the latch would fit. I don't have very high hopes, of course, since the knob on the door I tested on is the same brand, "Schlage", and has the same knob dimensions, etc. I may or may not buff out the latch hole, or maybe I can find a door knob that already fits my current latch hole dimensions, though I doubt I'll come across that anywhere online (or in stores, and it's much easier to find stuff online anyway). -EDIT- Changed to two stars. At first it was one. Measured the length of the rectangular parts of both the old and new latch. The new latch is 1/10 of an inch higher, whereas both cylindrical parts are equally sized. Not surprised, so I put in the dimensions of my old latch in google (8/10"), hoping to see if some latches are designed to have that height, but nothing. Either Master Lock or Schlage screwed up getting something correct. I doubt it's the latter, when Schlage actually made a CONSISTENT latch. And it turns out that the old latch on my room is identical to the other old latch for the experimental door, so I knew very well I was going to have to insert the somehow-bigger latch into the side hole. Called Master Lock Tech Support again (the same mother-effer picks up each time) and said he didn't know how the two latch pieces would separate, and there are no instructions for this anywhere, and I nor he is even sure if separating it in two is possible. There is something on it you can push in (that doesn't get pushed in by any part, nor serves a function for the knob to work), that kind of makes me think it can be, though after pushing that and trying to separate the latch, nothing happens. The latch hole on my room door was also tight as **** (you can say a little tighter than the door I first tried), though interestingly enough, I was more eager to drill the new latch in this time, and it was able to make it half-way through with just physical force. What a waste of effort, since I needed to use the wide flathead either way to buff out the entry, so that the rectangular part of the latch can fit. Covered front and back knob hole with tape to catch the sawdust. Eventually, the latch made it through, and I was able to install everything (the knob, faceplate, door frames plate, etc.) and the door is able to close and lock, and for that reason I changed this review to two, as I'm a little satisfied with the day (so you can kind of say I still give it a one...). I suppose little to no sawdust went anywhere at the end of this installation, also. So in conclusion, one, they need to be more precise with their instructions (second segment of page 1), and two, they need to make a latch that is consistent where the cylindrical and rectangular parts will always fit THE SAME HOLE. Common ****ing sense. The old latches which are arguably from 1990 or before, have this feature, so there's no excuse for this one. Had it these two things, than a 5 this would be.
