I had no idea JB Weld made this. It's a really great product, though it has some iffy and tedious directions for using it ... temp, etc., that I summarily ignored. I just mixed it as normal and everything went very well. Crystal clear and very hard where I'd gotten rid of bubbles. Now, bubbles. It's really no better than any other resin with the exception of a couple of things: 1. If you are making a small batch and have something to heat the resin to remove the bubbles (like a coffee cup warmer), it's brilliant. I'm going to assume the bubbles I got were the result of trapped air that didn't surface until well over 30 minutes because I was encasing embroidery. To be expected and I figured out how to correct for that and it wasn't the "fault" of the resin. 2. I do short pours, or those that I repour to embed objects before the initial layer is hard-cured. You can do this with most resins over a 3-5 hour period after pouring. The instructions said that it's cured to touch in 5 hours and cured in 12. Because I still wanted it to be a bit boggy (because of what I was imbedding), I erred on the 3 hour side. NOPE. Let it sit until the "cured to touch" stage, or at the very least 4 hours. At 3 hours, while I could imbed the thing over the initial pour for a colored background, it wasn't cured enough so that the thing still moved by motion of (oops) leftover bubbles (threadwork ... lots of holes I didn't fill with clear sealer enough before pouring) ... and the object was pushed by the bubbles to one side, which caused the very edge of the imbedded thing to be just above the final surface ... and that meant I couldn't clean it up. Also, some of the resin from the first pour actually crept up into the second pour, which, in the case I used it, was pretty cool. But if you want a clean delineation, then wait the 5 hours. SO, this is great, crystal clear resin that cures in half the time of some other resins. HOWEVER, if you're embedding something, you have to wait until somewhere between 4.5 and 5 hours or what you put in may shift, sink, float, or whatever you didn't want to happen. Honestly, I used to use Ice Resin before it was bought by Ranger (and marked up to unreasonable levels because of the name "Ranger" ... and it's not the same as before). Ice Resin used to de-gas quickly no matter how vigorously you stirred. Now, not so much. Don't buy from Ranger. It's SO expensive! Even if you know that a product you used previously was perfect at half the price before purchase. Ice Resin isn't the same and that made me sad. Ice resin was the best, but now is owned by Ranger, so the original folks have no control ... and Ranger is twice as expensive as it needs to be for just about everything ... so ... This JB weld option is very close. JB Weld stuff is pretty close at a fraction of the cost. However, you must be careful as to how you mix, as with most other resins. Be sure you are mixing as close to the exact amounts. Ice Resin was more forgiving. If you're going to use this for professional purposes, buy a scale and measure by weight, like a lot of other resins recommend. Oh, and DON'T ever use popsicle sticks to mix. I know, seems like all manufacturers send wood sticks to stir because it's cheap ... But wood has grain, which means it has holes. Those holes hold air, that off-gasses into your resin. Use silicone instead, or use recycled plastic, like plastic cutlery you get from a fast food place. Just use the handle. With the Ice Resin I used to use, it wasn't a thing. With the JB Weld, it is.
