- Well packaged, no wasted space in the box. Only one type and size of fastener used, so that's easy. Instructions are pretty crappy, just line drawings with no actual instructions. Still, I had it unpacked, assembled, in place with stuff in it, and the trash cleaned up in 35 minutes start to finish. - Assembly is just a few steps, do NOT over tighten screws. Just snug them up for now: 1. Attach sides of drawer to back of drawer with screws, keeping slots aligned. Insert bottom into slots and attach drawer front with screws. Attach knob, then set aside finished drawer. 2. a. Lay top upside down on floor. Use screws to attach back of cabinet to ends of ribs. 2. b. Turn partially assembled cabinet so back is away from you, then slide side pieces into grooves. Use screws to attach the two support pieces to hold the bottom of the side panels (which is on top as you are building it), then insert the dowels of the other two supports into the holes on the back piece. 2. c. Put cabinet front in place, reach inside through drawer to get the dowels in the holes, then use screws to attach front panel. Attach knob to door. Cabinet build is now finished. 3 a. Flip cabinet right side up. Insert bottom of cabinet and drop into place. Insert finished drawer. Reach up from inside the bottom door to turn the drawer stop so it sticks up under the center of the drawer, this stops you from pulling the drawer out every time you open it. I'd recommend waiting a couple days, giving all the screws a final, careful tightness check, THEN inserting the wood plugs into the screw holes. I used only 4 for the front, and threw the bag with the other 4 into the drawer in case I need them later. I don't see the point of installing them in the back where they can't be seen. - Sturdiness is meh, at best. You get what you pay for. Overtightening will strip the screw holes, ESPECIALLY in the drawer pieces, so use caution. I stuck little felt pads on the bottom to avoid floor scratches, not necessary on carpet. One last thing, the strength and location of the magnet that holds the bottom door closed, and the location of the knob, combined with the overall flimsiness of that door causes the door to twist REALLY far when you pull it open. In my opinion, this would be the first thing to break on this piece of furniture with regular use. My advice would be to either replace the metal plate on the back of the door with a small washer to minimize the surface area in contact with the magnet, or just cover the plate and/or magnet with a couple layers of masking tape. I used 3 layers of blue painters tape and it worked like a charm. It stays closed, but opens easily without racking the door completely out of shape.