Rilevatore di calore Kidde, cablato con batteria di riserva e 2 LED, interconnettibile

Name: Rilevatore di calore Kidde, cablato con batteria di riserva e 2 LED, interconnettibile
Brand: Kidde
SKU: 0025417841350
Price: 81.63 EUR
Availability: InStock

Brand:Kidde

3.7/5

€
81.63

Certificato UL, garanzia limitata di 5 anni. Interconnessioni con un massimo di 24 dispositivi Kidde inclusi rilevatori di fumo e CO. Il pulsante Test consente di verificare che i circuiti elettronici, il clacson e la batteria del sensore di calore funzionino. Il cablaggio di alimentazione a connessione rapida rende l'installazione facile e veloce. Protegge durante un'interruzione di corrente: l'allarme termico funziona con una fonte di alimentazione cablata da 120 V con batteria di backup da 9 V. Il rilevatore di calore avvisa quando le temperature superano i 135⁰ Fahrenheit e suona un allarme da 85 decibel per proteggere la tua famiglia.

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EAN: 0025417841350

Categories: Strumenti e miglioramento della casa,

Alarm	Audible
Alarm	‎Audible
Batteries	‎1 9V batteries required.
Batteries Included?	‎Yes
Batteries Required?	‎Yes
Battery Cell Type	‎Alkaline
Brand	Kidde
Brand	‎Kidde
Compatible Devices	Up to 24 Kidde devices of which 18 can be initiating devices
Compatible Devices	‎Up to 24 Kidde devices of which 18 can be initiating devices
Country of Origin	‎China
Customer Reviews	4.6 4.6 out of 5 stars 829 ratings 4.6 out of 5 stars
Domestic Shipping	Item can be shipped within U.S.
Included Components	‎User manual
International Shipping	This item can be shipped to select countries outside of the U.S. Learn More
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer	‎No
Item Dimensions LxWxH	6 x 5 x 2 inches
Item Dimensions LxWxH	‎6 x 5 x 2 inches
Item model number	‎hd135f
Item Package Quantity	‎1
Item Weight	0.01 Ounces
Item Weight	‎0.01 Ounces
Lower Temperature Rating	40 Degrees Fahrenheit
Lower Temperature Rating	‎40 Degrees Fahrenheit
Manufacturer	‎Kidde Safety
Operating Humidity	85 percent
Operating Humidity	‎85 percent
Part Number	‎HD135F
Power Source	Battery Powered
Power Source	‎Battery Powered
Product Dimensions	‎6 x 5 x 2 inches
Style	Hardwired Heat Detector
Style	‎Hardwired Heat Detector
Upper Temperature Rating	135 Degrees Celsius
Upper Temperature Rating	‎135 Degrees Celsius
Voltage	‎120 Volts
Warranty Description	‎5 Year Limited

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Scritto da: DDAY

Would buy again.

I’ve had both smoke detector types in my house near my kitchen and my over would always set the alarm off if it was over 400*. Installed heat detector and no more alarm. Works with my other Smokes/Co hardwired.

Scritto da: S V Brown

Replaced an older unit of the same type.

The old units life span was up. Ez to install a trusted brand.

Scritto da: Minneapolis Kitteh

So far so good

Smoke detectors are recommended to be in hallways outside bedrooms. Sigh. Our hallway outside our bedroom is very "conveniently" (hint: NOT) right next to the kitchen, and very close to the gas oven, and we had a ionization/CO alarm that gave us a scare when we first used the oven and called the fire department to confirm if there is any CO leak that we didn't know of when we bought the house. That's when we learned all about "nuisance alarms". The alarm from the apartment where we used to live rarely went off while we cook so - yeah, this annoyance was new to us. Given we have about 10 of these hardwired together when one went off and I hate loud noises, I knew the smoke alarm will be my least favorite of all household electronics. We got this to replace the one next to the kitchen -- it was easy to install and test (with earplugs), and so far it did not throw any tantrums during frozen pizza nights like we used to have. I did not have to replace the existing Kidde wiring harness -- just the mounting plate. It integrated well with the variety of Kidde alarms we currently have (we plan to replace the nuisance ones at some point in the future). I also installed this in our basement to replace the ionization type that we have right beside the laundry/furnace room (that also went off when we are using our flat iron). No nuisance so far, although we make sure we don't put steam directly beneath it. Of course, I also got a separate CO alarm for the basement, though, for added protection. 4-stars because while I'd rather chuck each one of these out into the dumpster, I have to have these for my own safety. I don't love it. I like it enough because it saves me from having frequent heart attacks. I wish they'd be able to manufacture more alarms that's ear-friendly, not ear-splitting, while being able to alert you with the situation. Or sound out a voice warning a few minutes before it starts beeping like crazy. It's just ironic how you're supposed to "remain calm" when these things go off, but I usually feel like joining my kitty under the couch when it starts shrieking.

Scritto da: Pragmatist: T. Frick

Solves a problem in the kitchen area for false alarms

We put a new addition onto our house, and city code required us to install connected smoke alarms all over the house, upstairs and down. One of the smoke detectors was at the top of the stairs going down to the basement, too near our kitchen stove (less than 10 feet away). Another was in the living room, also a few feet from the kitchen area. We were getting too many false alarms with the smoke detectors, especially when some frying was being done in the kitchen. When all the alarms would go off, even our next-door neighbors would hear them, and wondered if we were all right. In the meantime, we were opening outside doors to bring in fresh air in order to get the stupid things to shut off, and getting really annoyed. We never had this problem before. But the city code required this on new construction, and we would not have originally passed the final inspection without the new smoke alarm system. After about the 3rd or 4th false alarm in about as many weeks, my next door neighbor suggested we replace the smoke detector in the kitchen with a heat detector. I did not know that such things existed at the time. So I ordered one, and replaced the smoke detector in the kitchen at the top of the stairs. That cut down on the number of false alarms from kitchen cooking, but the one in the living room was still being triggered sometimes. So I replaced that one as well, but with a carbon monoxide detector that worked in this wired system. This solved the problem of false and extremely annoying alarms, due to cooking in the kitchen (when frying something). And our next-door neighbors are happier too. The remaining smoke detectors are further away from the kitchen in other rooms, and are unaffected. I think we're pretty well-covered, and if any one of them gets triggered, they all go off. The city code had conflicting demands. Don't put them in a kitchen area, but do put them at the top and bottom of a stairwell. That was a contradiction in our case. Unfortunately, we could not find the other kind of smoke detector (not ionization) to work in our system. Even so, the heat detector made more sense as a practical replacement. And having an additional carbon monoxide detector made sense too.

Scritto da: Brian OReilly

If you have a commercial stove, this is for you

Most houses when they are built are usually fitted with the absolute minimum required photo sensitive fire detectors. Newer houses also have a carbon monoxide detector built in, which has a limited life and has to be replaced more often. For the kitchen or kitchen living space, if you have a gas stove or you bake foods using high heat a lot, chances are you'll get some smoke. The single photo sensitive detectors will often go off with false positives When I spoke to Kiddie, they recommend this detector for spaces where by-products of gas cooking or high heat cooking smoke will set off a standard detector. For me, I have a Thermador 6 burner pro range and even with a 1200 cfm hood, I got a lot of smoke detector false positives. I swapped out the original Kiddie for this one and it is plug and play. I did not have to wire. I just unplugged the old and plugged in the new. Depending on the original detector, you might also have to swap out the base plate. I just loosened the screws on the electrical box, twisted off the old and then reversed the process. All up, the work required was about 10 minutes and I now have a smoke detector (actually it detects high heat over smoke) that does not go off every other day. I additionally installed a plug in carbon monoxide detector, so that I don't have to replace my smoke (heat) detector every 10 years.