I wasn't really sure what 60,000 BTU would do, let alone the low setting at 30,000 BTU. Turns out it works wonderfully for me! I've used it a numerous times now to heat up the garage for working on my vehicle and stuff. My garage is 600 sq ft with an open ceiling. 2 standard garage doors and a window with so-so insulation. A number of days have been below zero degrees F including today. I have it at 60,000 BTU for the first hour or so and then turn it down to 30,000 BTU which allows me to comfortably work in Jeans and a T-shirt. The whole while I have one garage door cracked about an inch or less at the bottom for fresh air. A smell exists but I consider it mild as long as I leave the garage door cracked. If I close the garage door completely, after about 3+ hours the smell gets a bit stronger than I'ld prefer and my eyes start to get a little itchy. Keep the garage door cracked, no problems and it still keeps me toasty warm. I use a 30 lb propane cylinder and it lasts me for about 15 hours of use, probably about a total of less than 5 hours on 60,000 BTU and +10 hours on 30,000 BTU over the course of 2-3 days of use. BTW, you are NOT limited to either 30,000 BTU or 60,000 BTU. The dial can be set anywhere in between those two settings, so you can fine tune the output as you please between the high and low setting. I personally just crank it to 60,000 BTU till the indoor temp is comfortable for me and then turn it down to 30,000 BTU to hold the temp. On subzero days I personally find the need to keep it running on at least the 30,000 BTU setting. On 25*F and above days I find the need to shut it off altogether for the majority of the time I'm working. In between is in between. It seems like a quality unit. Fit and finish is perfect. Comes with a 10' hose. It's my first one ever so I don't know what to expect for the future, but as of right now I can say I'm 100% satisfied and feel it was worth every penny. I like how it's so portable too being lightweight, unlike the much heavier and smellier kerosene units. About propane; I was a little scared of it not knowing anything about it as first. Once you know the basics it's really no different than having gasoline around, just different rules. In propane run equipment like this heater you are only burning the propane in gas form. In your propane cylinder you have liquid propane but as it boils it produces the gas form that the heater runs on. The reason the propane is a liquid in the cylinder is because it's under pressure from boiling and therefore once it boils in the cylinder and produces enough gas inside the cylinder at a high enough pressure level, it stops boiling till your LPG (liquid propane gas) run equipment starts using it at which point it boils again till enough pressure builds up again and it ceases boiling again. Propane starts to boil at -44*F. So as long as it doesn't get below -44*F your LP will be useable as LPG. If it did get below -44*F you could simply pour your liquid propane on the ground just like water at which point it would still be flammable, just that it wouldn't turn to a gas state till the temperature rose back above -44*F. Propane gas is heavier than air, therefore it sinks in air and drifts/flows to the lowest spot in the area and is why propane cylinders with LP in them shouldn't be stored indoors where any gas that may ever leak would pool up, whereas outside it can dissipate and isn't a danger to speak of regarding a minor leak. Also, a minor propane gas leak can be much larger of a leak than most would expect. Anyway, there's a whole lot more that could be said, those are just a few of the tidbits I learned after a little research. Hope it takes away some of the uncomfortableness some may have with propane as I did before a little research. And bear in mind propane cylinders are extremely safe even when filled with LP. They handle much more pressure than the propane can produce and have a relief valve for really hot days out in the sun to bleed off a little pressure when they need to. LOL, and no, I don't work for a propane company:)
