Freud 12-100: Punta dritta a doppia scanalatura da 1/4" (dia.) con gambo da 1/2", lunghezza totale 2-3/8", diametro rosso da 1/4" per fresatrice dritta a doppia scanalatura da 3/4" Morso

Brand:Freud

3.8/5

€
43.05

DESCRIZIONE PRODOTTO Punta dritta a doppia scanalatura 1/4 (diametro) (Eclipse Grind) DAL PRODUTTORE Queste punte tagliano in modo più fluido rispetto ad altre punte dritte grazie agli angoli di taglio e gancio precisi. Il rilievo dell'estremità della punta consente un rapido tuffo. Coperto dalla garanzia a vita limitata di Freud.

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EAN: 0008925380139

Categories: Utensili elettrici e manuali, Parti e accessori per utensili elettrici, Parti e accessori del router, Bit del router, Punte dritte, a spirale e di rifinitura, Dritto,

DETTAGLI: Realizzato in acciaio con finitura spazzolata bronzo invecchiato e paralume ad acqua. Approvato CSAus per luoghi WET. INSTALLAZIONE: (1) 36 catena e hardware per montare il dispositivo su una scatola di giunzione esistente inclusa (scatola di giunzione non inclusa). ILLUMINAZIONE: lampadina(e) a incandescenza B10 a candelabro da 3-60 Watt, lampadina(e) non inclusa(e), 180 Watt totali. DORSET OUTDOOR PLAFONIERA PENDENTE DIMENSIONI: 14,25 di altezza x 10,75 di larghezza, peso 6,65 libbre, rosone a soffitto: 5,67 L x 5,67 W.

Batteries Included?	‎No
Batteries Required?	‎No
Brand	Freud
Color	‎Red
Country of Origin	‎Italy
Customer Reviews	4.7 4.7 out of 5 stars 2,371 ratings 4.7 out of 5 stars
Domestic Shipping	Item can be shipped within U.S.
Included Components	‎Double Flute Straight Router Bit
International Shipping	This item can be shipped to select countries outside of the U.S. Learn More
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer	‎No
Item model number	‎12-100
Item Package Quantity	‎1
Item Weight	0.1 Pounds
Item Weight	‎1.6 ounces
Manufacturer	‎Freud
Material	Blend
Material	‎Blend
Measurement System	‎Metric
Number of Flutes	2
Part Number	‎12-100
Product Dimensions	‎1 x 1 x 1 inches
Size	1/4" x 2-3/8"
Size	‎1/4" x 2-3/8"
Style	‎1/4-Inch Diameter by 3/4-Inch Double Flute Straight Router Bit
Warranty Description	‎Freud Limited Tooling Warranty. Contact Freud customer service for more details. 800-334-4494

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Scritto da: John Markelewicz

It Cuts!

I needed a larger straight cutting bit for a project I was working on. I bought this one and I must tell you, this thing cuts! The bit runs true, sharp as heck and no tear out! Pretty much what you’d expect from Freud!

Scritto da: J. Hilson

Great quality bit

High quality bit.

Scritto da: 03springer

works good

so far so good

Scritto da: Steve Graybehl

Worked as advertised!

worked great, well made!

Scritto da: Lars

used to flatten end of a beam

I wanted to flatten the end of a 6x6 reclaimed oak beam. The beam was just the right height to secure in my bench's tail vice, and I made a jig to control the path of my 2.25 HP plunge router. I chose this bit because of its size (1" diameter-- takes off a decent amount but not too scary-big) and because of its cutting depth, which was necessary for me to reach the piece with my jig, while a more typical slab-flattening bit was not able to do. Anyway, it worked great for that purpose!

Scritto da: S. Fannin

Power and accuracy

I use this almost exclusively to cut slots in small shelves. Like for a fastener or a lectern book sliding stopper or perhaps something adjustable. I could use the 1/4" straight bit that came in a set of various bits costing about what this one bit costs. So why would I buy this? Well, it cuts far more accurately. You can see by eye even that the slot is kind of perfect. The 1/2" shank transfers more power for any brand, but it's still a feature. The cutter goes straight and it doesn't care if it suddenly hits where a branch was in hardwood or an odd spot in something, that just disappears. That's where the "free" or "multi-pack" one fails. Something a little off and it wobbles and maybe you can see it, or the board moves a little, or the slot height is uneven, or even some little bits fly out, all of which leave the slot looking crummy. So being frugal I might very well use cheap bits sometimes where the holes will be invisible or I'm just doing some random chopping. But for finishing stuff that the end user will see, you need to use a specialty "premium" bit. For me that's usually Freud bits because I get consistently good results with them. And again, not saying your whole set needs to be these--they're not cheap. But even for a hobbyist who can't pass on the cost, the ones you really like and use frequently should be Freud.

Scritto da: Nathan Barksdale

Extremely Clean

Its like a hot knife through butter. Very happy.

Scritto da: Kerry Pierce

wow, what a bit!

The first thing that impresses you about this bit, is the size. It is really large. The cutters are huge and as such, require more care than usual, especially if you are using it in a hand held router. I've been using the bit in a 2 1/4 HP router, with a D handle installed. I jointed and squared 2 large boards 8ft x 12" x 3", hand held. I butted the router base against long straight edges and took cuts of about 1/16" to 1/8". The bit performed flawlessly, giving me very smooth edges on the boards, which were laminated 3/4" cabinet grade plywood (3) with a 3/4" layer of solid red oak. Of course, the 2 1/2" cutting length wasn't long enough to do the whole board. After making about a 2 1/4" cut with this bit, I turned the boards over and used a 1/2" trim bit, bearing on the bottom, to finish off the cuts. The job turned out great, only requiring light passes with a smoothing plane to finish off the job. I'm very pleased with the speed and ease that this bit jointed and squared these large pieces. Nothing else in my shop worked as well or as quickly. Now to the bad part. I got a little careless on the second board, while cutting one of the 8ft sides. I didn't keep the router dead flat on the surface and dipped into the cut. In a split second, that long cutter took a big bite out of the side and then climbed up and out of the cut, twisting me to the left. Fortunately, the D handle base is a very secure base, that allows you to have a very good hold on the router, so nothing happened other than scaring me half to death. But, if someone had been standing close to me on the left, the router would have been in their face in an instant. I've been using routers for over 30 years and never had a router do that to me before. Of course, I usually use a router table when possible, which is the sensible thing to do with such large bits. I've got other projects planned, where I'll be using this bit and router configuration again as a hand held jointer. But, the next time, I'll make and install a much larger router base plate that will keep the router flat on the work surface. That should make things idiot proof....

Scritto da: Travis Merrett

Game changer!!!

Do I buy a jointer for several hundred dollars or do I buy this router bit? No-brainer! I have a planer and a router/router table. I think it is important to note that the router I have mounted in my router table is on the heavier duty side. It may make a difference if the router being used is not as powerful. However, I was tossing around the idea of purchasing a jointer as I have an expensive planer already. Looking for a cheaper alternative to jointing, I came across a lot of people using their router tables with a large straight bit. Albeit, the wood that is being jointed cannot be really large on the edges, this truly gets the job done. I plane the boards down to a perfect finish and then run them past this bit on my router table finishing the job. Smooth and perfectly squared!!

Scritto da: Wayne S.

A definite workhorse!!! My first PREMIUM BRAND bit. Razor sharp!!!

I cut 3/4" deep dados across 51 2x6 studs on both ends for a barell sauna build. I would line up 14 of them and run across them with my edge guide. It chews through them like nothing in a single pass. Chips thrown everywhere!!! I do recommend a heavy duty router for this bit. I had purchased a 2HP 11Amp router for this job, but edge guides were out of stock for about a month. So I had to use my smaller 1.75HP 9Amp. Chewed through easily on a most of the boards. However it would stall continuously on a few of the denser boards. Not sure if those perhaps had more moisture (kiln dried dimensional lumber from big box store) but they were a little heavier, and in some case had streaks of a different colour also so perhaps it was just the part of the tree those were cut from. For my last few groups I did it in two passes to save my back and had zero stalls on the smaller router.

Scritto da: Walnut

Good bit, but doesn't route completely flat on the bottom for me

I bought this bit for use in a router sled, for flattening large rough stock. The process works really well, but leaves lines on the workpiece where the bit edges pass. Of course the issue could be caused by any number of things, but I have adjusted everything possible and it won't go away. Googling suggests this is a common phenomenon with the sled process, but you should be aware this is likely to happen to you if sledding if your aim. The lines are persistent, but can be sanded out. You just have to plan for a little extra work and material loss. I also find I could have used a 1 1/2" bit that was more readily available. The last 1/4" would not have made any difference to me. I do get a little tear our on the edges of the workpiece as well. If you are counting on sharp edges prior to a glue up, you will need to take precautions or plan to joint your work after sledding. Overall a great bit I am glad to have in my collection.

Scritto da: Debbie

Likely a great bit once you get it out of the case.

I will be using this to flatten very wide boards. I expect it will be a top quality bit so no qualms there. However, I have never had such a hard time removing a bit from the case. I finally built two small towers of boards to support the edges of the case so the case was upside down, I put a #2 Robertson screwdriver in the hole in the bottom of the case and beat very hard with a hammer. Once the bit fell out I tried various methods to get the rubber gasket off without slicing my hands. Finally I got a good grip on the sides of the bit and twisted the gasket. It slowly made its way down the bit and came off. Hopefully this will help someone else get their bit out of the case and keep their fingers intact.

Scritto da: Teredactle

It's a Freud bit, what else can I say.

I got this for a single purpose which was to trim some wood off a 2x4 that I used to build a fence gate; the wood dried/warped, whatever and the gate would only close if pushed hard (i.e. 1,2 mm too wide). I used this with my router to trim off that 2mm, easy peasy. Freud bits speak for themselves. Came in a plastic container, well protected on the sides. this bit at it's size can be pretty versatile. Would love it if it was cheaper.