This is a well-made product, and the painted coating was properly done. It comes in eight pieces (the wire baskets the two roller frames, and the exterior support brackets). Fortunately, it also came with the appropriate wood screws for mounting the bottom roller frame and the exterior frames as well as machine screws to mount the top roller frame to the exterior frames. The instructions were a bit weird to read, as instructions go, but once I got past the first picture frame I figured out the operating mechanism. In your cabinet make sure you measure the dimensions fully, and don't just go by the footprint of the product. The footprint is about 9.5 inches but the exterior frames protrude out, so if you have any supply or drain pipes under say your kitchen or bath vanity sink you'll want to ensure full clearance all the way up and all the way back. Also note that you need a lot of manual dexterity to assemble this into place. You'll have to physically mount the exterior frame and bottom roller frame to the cabinet. This is no easy task if you have a tight space or if you have physical dexterity issues. I'm very mechanically inclined and it took me 3x longer to install than anticipated because of the tight space I had to work with. When they suggest you give 1.75" from the cabinet edge to the front of the frame, make absolutely certain you do so. A quarter inch off will potentially impede your ability from fully closing your cabinet door as the basket protrudes out a bit past the foot print. I suggest mounting the front of the drawers first. You'll have four screws to install--one on each end through the exterior frame and then the innner-most holes which secures the exterior frame and roller frame together. Once the front is secured, then proceed to mount the back set. I suggest starting from the front and then the back to fully ensure your 1.75" spacing remains accurate. Again, a quarter inch off and you'll be hosed. Now that you've assembled the eight bottom wood screws to the cabinet, then proceed with mounting the top roller frame to the top part of the exterior frames with the machine screws. Again, a lot of dexterity will be needed. Pop one screw to each of the four top corner assembles. This will ensure everything successfully lines up (similar to replacing a wheel on a tire you changed). Apply your phillips screwdriver to the top of the screw with one hand and hold the nut on the bottom part of the screw with your other hand, then twist the screw one. Don't even try to twist the nut on as there's not enough clearance, even with the smallest of fingers. Once all machine screws and corresponding nuts are assemble to about 90% maximum tightness, go back and tighten each one by hand until secured--but not overtightened. The basket assemble can be tricky. You'll see that while the front and rear of the baskets may appear similar, they are not. The rear of the basket has two bars on the bottom running perpendicular to the basket. This is the rear part of the basket assembly. Both of those bars have to go into the roller frame slots. You'll have to raise the top of the basket about 25-35 degrees to fit the bars through. SPECIAL NOTE: There's this tiny piece of plastic on the outermost perpendicular bar. For some reason the plastic piece moved on one of my baskets, and thus it impeded the ability to slide this into the roller frame slot. It was easy to move back into position and the basket slide in lickity split thereafter. Overall, I like this product. I've spent hours and hours searching for shelf pull-outs. I liked the steel gray color as it makes it look less cheap and goes with the brushed nickel decor of the bathroom fixtures. It's pretty sturdy, considering it cost less than $30, and well worth the money--as long as you have the mechanical dexterity to assemble this. For the sake of other people, it would've been nice if they had suggested to pilot drill the screw holes and what size drill bit to use, but that would've complicated the instructions and require yet another tool on the needed tools install list. You should always try to pilot drill into wood, sheet rock, plastic, or metal, first, for significantly more easier installations.
